All posts tagged: philip white

Tasting Algos, Spring II: Angular

When would you say that a wine is angular? Descriptors used in similar contexts are: attenuated astringent austere disjointed charmless lean compact compressed hollow monolithic For well-reviewed wines, angular often refers to a finely-balanced nervous tension. A JR review of 1996 Louis Roederer Cristal Brut (61% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay) says  “tangy and very vibrant and nervy… very tight… tightly laced like a corset – very nerveux… firm… fine and tight and angular.” Context is everything. Quality wine has angles and edges: a complicated backbone of acidity to keep it standing as the years go by. Great wine fills in and around its polygon structure. Vertices soften and sharp edges fold into each other. Character develops slowly in a delicate balance of hardness and softness, supple flesh on sinewed angles. In a post on Australia’s Fear of Natural Acids, Philip White writes about natural versus added tartaric acids. The natural acids lock “flavours together, and train them to sing in harmony” while corrective tartaric acid “always looks awkward and angular, never really harmonising.” If you think a wine will improve with age, …